From First Light…

I first met Jeffrey during the 2002-2003 deer season.  He and my son were friends.  They were about 18 years old and just graduated from high school.  During visits, Jeff expressed interest in hunting, and would I take him out with me “sometime”.

  I let him use a decent little rifle, a .44 magnum Marlin lever action with a 2.5X scope mounted and sighted-in, shooting 180 grain bullets at around 1800 fps-more than adequate out to 150 yards or so.  I had Jeff take the Hunter Safety course, required by Mississippi state law for a license by hunters born after 1972, and buy his hunting license.  I allowed him to get familiar with shooting the rifle, on beavers in a pond on the property that the owner wanted controlled.  The water rats were burrowing into the pond dam and about to destroy it. 

One morning, while sitting in a ground blind we made overlooking a power-line cut, a nice, 125-130″, 3 or 4 year-old 8-point buck came out in the clearing.  I whispered to Jeffrey:  “Shoot him!”  Jeff moans:  “I can’t”.  His eyes rolled up in his head and he swooned into a semi-conscious faint, thrashing around on the ground!  The buck, only some 50 yards away, heard the commotion, high-tailed, and turned inside-out into an all-out dead run.  I shot at him, missed, shucked in another round and shot again.  I missed again.  The buck disappeared in the thicket on the other side of the cut.  Jeff was lying on the ground by his chair, moaning:  “I can’t believe that.  He was RIGHT THERE!”  We nicknamed the deer “the pass-out buck”, and we all, including Jeffrey, had many good natured laughs over the incident.

hey Mr. Ron
this is jeffrey.  i’ve been meaning to contact you for some time now but haven’t really had a chance. What’s your email address?  this “contact me” form just turned my whole email into a bunch of question marks and weird gray blocks.  to make a long story short i bought a 30-06 and want to get back in the woods.  i need some help getting there. I’m gonna get that monster that scared me into fainting years ago, haha.

Jeff:  you can hit “reply” on this email…I’m living about 45 miles north of Jackson just off I-55…I haven’t hunted at all this fall…trouble with the hip implants and the heart…maybe sometime..?

Man yeah! You name the the date and time and I’m there. By the way do you still keep in touch with that foster guy? I would like to see if I could get permission to go out there since it’s so close

I haven’t seen him in over 6 years now..since before I left Tupelo…he may be listed in the phone book…he may remember you from when we hunted out there on his place..?  ….no idea about him now…my hips are pretty bad, and I can’t get around very well…if and when I hunt, I just about have to drive to a stand or location….that’s why I haven’t been out since late last winter…

Well I got curious if there was any activity out there on his place. So i rode out there this evening and saw that the place was covered in “hunting club” signs. There was a truck parked where we used to go in.  I guess it’s WMA’s for me this season. I’m gonna go out to the canal section on hwy 6 by Amory tomorrow morning. I got a wma stamp when i got my license. What’s the deal with that? Do you have to pay at the ranger station when you go out? I know there are cards or something to fill out.  There are no good “deer for dummies” articles with info on the wma’s.

Jeff:  I had some more thoughts on Mississippi WMA’s…there is another down near Houston, MS.,  (Chickasaw WMA)…as I remember, it has about 55,000 acres….I turkey hunted on it many times.  i recall seeing a good bit of buck sign while trolling around for gobblers–scrapes, hooked/torn-up trees, trails.  By the way, scouting for bucks by turkey hunting, or getting out right after the season closes, is a really productive scouting technique.  If you find shed antlers, that is pretty good evidence that buck “made it” and will be near that area again next year.  The hooked trees, scrapes and trails are ones used in the hunting seasons, not early, summer/fall signs.  Back to WMA hunting–all have check-in/check-out stations on main access roads.  You can find maps, daily use permits, and the regulations for hunting on that area.  I suggest that you do a “ride-around” before hunting on a WMA, with a map and/or a GPS.  That allows you to see campsites of other hunters, parking areas (and how much they have been used), and familiarizes you with the overall area layout in relation to roads and other landmarks.  WMA’s are pretty heavily used, lots of hunters who may be tuned in to the same area you are hunting.  At any given time, you never know if and when someone may walk in on you, or vice-versa.  BE CAREFUL.  Wear-without fail-at least the minimum 500 sq. inches of hunter orange.  Be ever alert/aware of your surroundings.  You don’t want to get shot, or shoot someone!

Go to the mdwfp.com website…click on WMA’s-they have an interactive map…and tell on the site what, if any, fees are charged…plus, the phone number and contact info of the Area Manager is posted on the site, too….up north of Tupelo, off the Trace somewhere, you can get on the Divide Section….I can’t remember just where, but there is a lot of  Corps of Engineers mitigation land up there managed by the mdwfp…check out the website, and do a little research…the MDWFP manages a lot of mitigation land, owned (I think) by the US Corps of Engineers, lands set aside when the Tenn-TomWaterway was established;  several hundred thousand acres  It’s be a  a good bet to hunt on those areas to find a good buck.

One more:  when you find your spot, make some mock scrapes, and infuse them with both Intruder Buck scent, and Doe in Heat….will attract deer to your spot, and hold one in gun range while it checks out the “smell”…..you can double the quantity of the commercial scents by diluting them half and half with plain ole tapwater, and put it in a small spray or CLEAN spritz bottle….and use the spray to re-scent the scrapes….also, I use 35mm film cans with clean cotton balls stuffed in ‘em, tie a loop of hanging string or wire on it, and infuse the cotton with scent (carry them in and out in a ziploc bag)…hang ‘em around in shooting lanes on trails near your spot to also “attract and hold” target deer…..try these tips out…

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“BIG BUCKS”, in all senses of the phrase-both the high dollar payouts by hunters, and the big income for the preserves and/or outfitters-and too, the reason for it all, the big whitetail bucks themselves:  If YOU want one, be ready to spend, big time!

I checked the websites of a couple of the better known pay-for-play preserves and outfitters.  The approximate, average going rate for a decent trophy whitetail in the 145″ Boone & Crockett size runs around $3,500.00 to $4,000.00 base cost.  Add to that expense the mandatory tips, meat and trophy processing, non-resident licenses and fees, taxes, transportation to and from the location, to get the “real” cost.  Moving up to a minimal B & C Record Book deer, the base price goes up to the $7500.00 to $8,000.00 range, plus all the extras.  And, that’s given that the cost of equipment and gear, hunting clothing, weapons and ammo has already been experienced by the shooter/client!

Let’s say that while on the preserve, the opportunity presents to take a monster buck.  One of the sites displays a huge, widely palmated almost red stag looking 255-7/8 inch non-typical killed by a client.  Quick number crunching shows that deer cost the “hunter” (‘not sure THIS venue is really hunting!) some $40,000.00, plus the non-included extras!

If one can afford that kind of pay out, and has the inclination or desire to avail himself of a “hunt” on one of these preserves, go on, get after it, and more power to him! 

My objection is not to the venue (the outfitters or preserves) or the shooter who goes there, but to the deer he may take being included in the record books along with fair chase, public or private land hunting trophies.  Should there be an asterisk in the record books’ listing for pay-for-play trophies, a separate category altogether, or even specific exclusion from the record books?  After all, even “fair chase” hunters may put out big bucks/high dollars for outright hunting land purchase, or leasing of property, or membership fees for hunting clubs.  Add to that the price of an ATV, a 4-wheel drive vehicle, and the other obligatory expenses of modern deer hunting, (gas and oil, licenses and fees, meals, lodging, etc., ), all the other necessary gear and equipment, and maybe the preserve hunting venue becomes more attractive, if not even cheaper!

How about it?  Your thoughts, and/or comments?  Has the current recession (or depression?) affected your hunting habits?  Have you cut down on the days spent hunting, or had to quit altogether?  Have you been to one of these pay-to-play preserves? Leave me a comment telling me how you feel, or Contact Me directly, and vent, or opine…..let me have it!

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This might have been entitled “Medium Game Guns & Loads”, but my experience is 100% exclusive with whitetail deer hunting.  Some or all of this may apply to pronghorns, mule deer, black bear.  The theories and more or less “factual” data can have applications to ALL hunting with modern center-fire rifles and loads.  

Right off, I’m ruling out the “little” calibers:  the .22 Long Rifle, .22 WMR, .22 Hornet, .218 Zipper, .219 Bee-all those smaller than the 5.56 mm’s (.22-250 and .223).   I am, though, aware, over the years, of deer that have been killed with these smaller caliber rule-outs, by jack-lighters, poachers, and incidental deer kills made when hunting small game or varmints with these smaller calibers, and a chance deer encouter resulted in a kill.  I know, too, of shots taken on deer with them that resulted in wounding and losing the deer.  I’ve walked up on too many deer carcasses and skeletons during and after hunting season that were lost due to a poorly-placed or minimal penetration shots from the sub-5.56’s, and from poorly placed larger caliber shots.

Those disclaimers and qualifications out of the way, the proof of a weapon-load combination is the ability or capacity to penetrate the target animal’s vitals-the so-called “kill-zone”-and dispatch it quickly and humanely.  Pumps, bolt-actions, semi-autos, single shots and double rifles chambered in the 5.56 mm centerfires on up to whatever caliber can be shot without recoil and muzzle blast discomfort, that can deliver double-lung, or heart-lung destruction are acceptable, depending on the caliber’s legality in the location hunted. 

Maybe the single-most influencing factor in missed or marginal shots that wound or cripple, is felt or perceived recoil, and a resulting shooter’s ”flinch”.  Granted, even the smaller calibers generate recoil and muzzle blast.  It is the FELT, or PERCEIVED recoil the shooter experiences that is paramount.  If a hunter shoots a .338-06 Ackley Improved, with its punishing 28.2 foot-pounds of recoil energy, and consistently “makes” killing shots (the proverbial “bang-flop” target animal reaction) by all means, continue to shoot it.  I have an aversion to undeserved, or unnecessary punishment, and therefore opt for the smaller, though still more than adequate, calibers.  I presently shoot a 6mm Remington, in an old 742 Remington semi-auto, topped with a 3x-9x moderately priced scope.  I don’t flinch, I get consistent one-shot kills.  I have it zeroed to 1.5 inches high at 100 yards.  The load goes out the muzzle at a measured 3138 feet per second. and has adequate energy out to 450 yards.  I ascribe to the “no hold-over” theory of shooting.  This gun and load shoots within 8 inches out to 338 yards. I’ve shot it enough at inanimate targets and live animals to be completely familiar with it.  I am reluctant, tho, to take a shot at much over 250 yards.  I find that most hunters tend to over-estimate short ranges-say, 75 yards or less-and under-estimate longer ranges.  Obviously, a laser range finder, or a range-finding scope would eliminate the need to accurately estimate ranges.  Given the no hold-over theory and the 1.5 inches at 100 yards sighting in. I find I can confidently take and make the longer range shots, and be sure of quick, clean kills.  I would not consider a long range shot without a completely stable rest and a stationary target, preferably standing broadside.  I hate the thought of a magnificent trophy animal-be it an 80-lb. doe, or a Boone & Crockett buck-running off, gut or marginally shot, to lingeringly suffer and die.

“Expert” riflemen and their more or less recognized “standards” state that the “upper limits of recoil energy comfort level is about 15 foot-pounds”.  That’s a broad generalization, obviously.  I personally find I can “take” recoil,without the dreaded flinch, in the 20 ft. lb. range. Calibers on or near that level are the .270, the .280, the old 7 x 57 mm, while the .30-06, its brother .308 and the .300 mags exceed the 15-20  ft.lb maximum, but not by much. 

I won’t get into the age-old argument of whether big, slow-moving bullets, versus smaller ones at higher speeds or velocities is the optimal choice.    If YOUR weapon and load penetrates the vitals, the “kill-zone” adequately to make one-shot “bang-flops”, or short distance animal recoveries;  then, by all means, rave on!  If, on the other hand, you have developed a flinch, or find the recoil and muzzle blast of your rifle and load choice uncomfortable, check out one of the smaller diameter calibers.  I’ve found that delivered energy at the range of the target in the 600 ft. lb. minimum is “adequate”.  Some hold to a 750 ft. lb. delivery as minimal on medium-sized game. 

My whitetail experience encompasses over 50 years, with hundreds and hundreds of first-hand shots and kills, after the fact recoveries, anecdotal ”show and tells” from other hunters and hunting buddies, post mortem analyses on carcasses done while dressing and butchering deer.  I’ve read Jack O’connor, Elmer Keith, Byron W. Dalrymple, Warren Page, and many other gun writers/riflemen with that much more experience.  While there is wide disagreement in the optimum whitetail/medium game gun and load, there is total agreement by all-me included-if your gun and load, and you the shooter makes consistent one shot kills, “bang-flops”-THAT is your optimum choice.

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This is a synopsis, or summation, of a recent conversation, via email, I had recently…the content is self-explanatory, and maybe worth YOUR thought and consideration.

Question:

I’m looking at buying a pistol.

Assuming you don’t have an extra one you might wanna let me have.

If not, do you have any suggestions?

I’ve been looking at the Walther P22 and PPK

Thoughts?

Answer:

All I have left in handguns is Daddy’s little 5-shot Smith & Wesson, the .38 antique with the 1-3/8 in. barrel that the archivists  at Smith can’t identify as to year of manufacture, or any other details.  I had to sell my big .44 mag scoped wheelgun with the 2x-7x scope… my big, bad deer and varmint weapon…As in most firearms, the selection is based on the purpose or use intended….do you want a personal protection piece?  If so, the Walthers you are considering  are great… reliable… well made, quality firearms… if you want to go American, look at the Ruger line-up… or the S&W… all the Glocks are good, but a bit pricey….for this purpose, too, the Taurus line is also worth consideration… and, Charter Arms makes a decent couple of pieces as well, notably the short barreled Bullpup model in a “standard” .44, and the Bulldog model in .44 magnum.  These Taurus and Charter lines are also good, well-made, reliable pieces, and even if purchased new, very reasonably priced.  I HOPE, though, you are going with a second hand, maybe pawn item..?  Or, check out the Tradewinds or whatever your local shopper magazine may be named for private sale items.

Reply:

Yea i want it for personal protection.

I’ll check those.

And yes, i had planned to go pawn shopping to find one.

Gotta get a few other things squared away first, but I would feel safer with one.

Addendum from me:

One more bee for your bonnet….an inexpensive pump 20 gauge, with the barrel sawed off to the ATF legal minimum of 18.5 inches–maybe stay at 19 inches, just to be sure–and the stock sawed to the pistol grip, the magazine and chamber loaded with #3 buckshot — is probably the BEST home protection piece… another inexpensive choice would be a single shot 20 gauge or 12 gauge (the 12 ga. loaded with single or double “ought” buckshot), configured/modified the same way… almost impossible to miss a target even up close and offhand without aiming with the scattergun… and the load is devastating to any invader/intruder… easy for a female to “master” too… just point and shoot… DO NOT carry a loaded weapon in a vehicle.  If stopped and found by John-Law, it is considered a concealed weapon if loaded, and serious trouble, not to mention the danger to yourself/the driver and his passengers… if and when transporting a weapon, be sure it is unloaded, and the ammo and weapon are stored separately and locked away from each other…

Response:

Thanks for the advice. I’ll likely do both.

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